Coming in.
Ironically, the majority of the people who played an important role in the renaissance of surfing in Hawaii, were haole (white skin).
In 1907 he came to Hawaii Jack London, who by that time was one of the most popular writers. His works "The Call of the Jungle" and "Sea Wolf" became a bestseller. When Jack London and his wife arrived in Waikiki, he was already famous. They stopped living in the hotel on the beach Waikiki, where we got acquainted with a few surfers, independent-minded Native Hawaiian and Europeans. Jack London and became interested in one of his new friends started giving
In 1907, Jack London wrote a story called "Sport of Kings: Surfing at Waikiki", which he described Waikiki and Ford. His story was published in October 1907 in the journal "Lady's Home Companion" and later, in 1911 as part of the piece "The Cruise of the Shark". Here's an excerpt:
"Where a moment ago was just a deep and invincible roar, standing at full height rushing people. Easily and naturally, in this mad whirl of energy and motion as if he glided over the tops of huge boulders. His feet were immersed in the foam, and the fog of Salt spray rose to his knees. He quickly flew through space, cutting like a razor giant peaks, which supported him. Tanned and handsome, he looked at the sun's rays cast from the mercury. His feet were like walking on air in this beautiful moment, he was the most faster than existing ocean. "
One of the people who "cut the giant peak" was George Fret. London is very enthusiastically wrote about him: "I saw it flies over the crests of huge waves, like a young god-covered bronze tan." The fame of Jack London and his pressure led to the fact that George Fret was invited to California by railroad magnate Henry Huntington (Henry Huntington). Firth asked to show surfing in Southern California, at the opening of a railroad "Redondo-Los Angeles Railway". Frits accepted the invitation, his speech was a great success and he got the title "the first man, who was involved in surfing in California."
Whatever it was, but the first surfer in California was not. Even in 1885, three Hawaiian princess, who visited Santa Cruz, California wrote in his letters that were riding in the village San Lorenzo River mouth on boards made from local mahogany. Also there is oral evidence that even earlier, Hawaiians, who worked on a merchant ship, rode the waves in Santa Barbara. It was about 1835, and nothing surprising in this. The surfer is always a surfer and the wave is always a wave. Who knows what was going on, he will understand. So many of those who knew what surfing and have been to these parts, tried to ride. It is authentically no one knows how many people have conquered the waves of California, but the first surfers of the places of whom were documented, there were three Hawaiian girls, and it is very symbolic. Well, George Fret was the first man who became famous in California is like a surfer.
While Jack London glorified surfing in his works, and George Fret amazed the crowd his demonstration performances, Alexander Hume Ford began a campaign for the popularization of surfing in Hawaii. In 1908 he petitioned the board of trustees of Queen Emma Estate, the allocation on the beach Waikiki, next to the Mona Hotel, a plot of land for the needs of the Club Development Hawaiian traditional sports, namely surfing and Canoeing. He also wrote the charter of the club, according to which the club will strengthen and enhance the attractiveness of Hawaii and Waikiki will be home for every surfer, where possible in the future, an annual festival of surfing and kayaking, which will undoubtedly increase the popularity of Hawaii as the only place in the world where people can ride on the crest of waves.
Ford introduced the statute in the Trusteeship Council, and the charter was approved. May 1, 1908 was officially founded Hawaiian Outrigger Canoe Club, the world's first surf club. The club provides training services and its territory were places for changing and storage boards.
Simultaneously, in 1905, several Native Hawaiians established informal surf club Hue Nile, designed to revive the indigenous Hawaiian interest in the sport. Hue Nile and Hawaiian Outrigger Canoe Club has worked closely and hold regular competitions between themselves. By 1911, when Hue Nile has been approved, on the beach Waikiki was about 100 boards. When Jack London returned to Hawaii in 1915, he was pleasantly shocked by the level ofc at that time numbered more than 1200 members, hundreds more were on the waiting list, and all sorts of hornlike dragged along the beach about half a mile" .

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